A Travellerspoint blog

July 2010

Cycling Around Iceland!

Icelandic Alps, fires & floods!


Icelandic Alps, fires & floods!

Skaftafell National Park is located in the south of Iceland. Dominating the skyline and a huge amount of tourist interest. The national park lies in between Kirkjubæjarklaustu and Höfn, which makes it easily accessible for day trips or a passing stop on route 1. Personally I would recommend staying for a few days and really seeing this beauty. If your into your hiking there are some great walking trails around here. If your like me, and you like to just gaze across the beautiful landscape then this is one attraction you shouldn't miss. On June the 7Th 2008, the Skaftafell National Park became part of the larger Vatnajökull National Park, which dominates Iceland. The Skaftafell National Park was founded on the 15Th of September 1967 and now measures 4807 km2, making it Iceland's second largest national park.
One of the main attractions and tourist "must See's" is a waterfall which has similar rock formations to the Giants Causeway in Northern Ireland. It was formed by a lava flow, cooling extremely slowly forming crystallisation. Which waterfall am I?! Svartifoss (The black waterfall)! Apparently the hexagonal basalt columns have influenced some of Iceland's architects, and most notably Guðjón Samúelsson, whom himself designed, among many others the 'Hallgrímskirkja' (Reykjavik's most noticeable building) and Akureyrarkirkja (the church of Akureyri). The resemblance is amazing! The national park also contains some of the most beautiful natural and rugged land in Iceland.
Skaftafell apparently housed the site of a manor farm in the middle ages. The church acquired land here and later the estate belonged to the Danish king. Fire and Ice or glacial flooding has had a profound effect on the area. History tells us that farms were destroyed by lava flows in 14Th century and the area was then known as Öræfi (wasteland). More recently the area has been effected by glacial flows. Volcanic activity beneath the glacier caused the dramatic release of ice and water and is known as jökulhlaup. The devastating flow cut a ridge into the ice margin 1km long, 250m wide and 40m deep.
There is so much to do in Skaftafell. You can go hiking until your boots wear thin. You can go mountain biking to mystical forests, yes forests, apparently guarded by trolls, or at least used to be. There is a great visitors center here giving much needed information and history, and Svartifoss, where the main congestion heads is well worth a viewing. Svartifoss is approximately 45 mins hike from the visitor center. We were lucky to get a few days of sun, and slight bit of colour to our faces. The unlucky thing for me, was that my batteries for my camera ran dead, and I couldn't charge them. I'm absolutely gutted about this. After spending a few crazy and stunning days in Skaftafell we decided to move on head towards Kirkjubæjarklaustur.
The trail from Skaftafell to Kirkjubæjarklaustur was just short of 70km. We decided that due to the lack of hills in the area we could probably finish this distance in one day of cycling. We had after all met other 'serious' cyclists that were completing 100km or more everyday. Route 1 running towards Kirkjubæjarklaustur ran past Skeiðarárjökull which was the sight of the 1996 jökulhlaup. The weather we has along here was mixed, as it usually is in Iceland. After a few previous nice days we were back to usual Icelandic variation. The rest of the cycle to Kirkjubæjarklaustur was spent mostly in 'the zone'. I would find that on this ground I could cover a lot of ground pretty quickly. I would then turn around to check on my friends and not see them on the horizon behind me. Stopping and waiting was something I was used to by now, but landscape around here wasn't much to shout about.
In the late evening we eventually arrived Kirkjubæjarklaustur (Church farm cloister) and set up camp. This town or village is pretty small, but well known for a number of interesting reasons. we decided to spend a day. Firstly and mainly there is another natural hexagonal basalt feature here, which once again reminds the viewer of the famous Giants Causeway in Northern Ireland. It is worth a look. Kirkjugólf or also know as church floor is made of basalt columns stuck in the earth, giving a pavement appearance or a church floor.

The settlement was apparently used before the settling of the Norse men. The Irish monks were apparently here. In 1186 Benedictine nuns set up a well known convent on the site, which lasted until the reformation of 1550. Not far above the town are the quaint but dramatic 'waterfall of the sisters' (Systrafoss) and the 'lake of the sisters' (Systravatn). Both worth a visit. Iceland is all about these little towns. Adventuring and finding out tails and stories steeped in fascination. Here apparently was the home of good and sinful nuns. The sisters rock (Systrastapi) is supposed to be a burial site of two nuns from the convent, after they had been burnt at the stake. One of the nuns was accused of selling her soul to the Devil, carrying communion bread outside of the church and also having sexual intercourse with men. The second sister was apparently to have spoken ill of the Pope, but this was eventually retracted, and folk law says that flowers now grow at her grave. Systravatn also has a rather unusual tale of its own. Apparently it was a lake frequently bathed in by the nuns. Apparently one day two nuns saw a hand rise up from the lake with a gold ring upon it. Both of the nuns apparently showed a greedy nature, and tried to seize the golden ring from the hand. While acting in such an un-nun-like fashion they were pulled under by the hand, and both nuns drowned.
The amazing church related stories don't end there. Apparently during 1783, pastor of the local church Jón Steingrímsson, delivered what became known as the "Fire Sermon" (eldmessa). Legend says that his sermon stopped a lava flow from destroying the town during 1783 Laki eruptions. Like the more recent explosion of Eyjafjallajökull, in 1783 not only was Iceland affected by the volcanic eruption. Many countries throughout Europe were effected. From Bergen to Belin and the old Kingdom of Bohiemia, and Great Britain reported a number of deaths due to poisoning. In Britain alone apparently 23,000 people died from poisoning due to the release of 8 million tons of hydrogen fluoride and an estimated 120 tons of Sulphur dioxide giving place to what was known as 'Laki haze' across Europe. One report from the time says that 'the fog was so thick that boats stayed in port, unable to navigate, and the sun was described as "blood coloured". The eruption is also linked to famines world wide in 1784. Crazy, crazy stuff. And just think how much people were complaining when Eyjafjallajökull, made its stamp on the world. Evidently, I don't think it would even compare to the Laki eruptions of 1783. We were the lucky ones! If anything this should teach us to respect nature more and awe in its beauty. We are not in control of nature, and should learn to respect that much more.

Icelandic lesson.......... Countries of the world

England = England
Ireland = Írland
Scotland = Skotland
Wales = Wales
Untied Kingdom = Bretland
Holland = Holland
France = Frakkland
Germany = Þýskaland
Sweden = Svíþjóð
Denmark = Danmörk
Norway = Noregur
Iceland = Ísland
Finland = Finnland
Fareo Islands = Færeyjar
Spain = Spánn
Italy = Ítalía

India = Indland
China = Kína
Japan = Japan
Russia = Rússland
Australia = Ástralía
New Zealand = Nýja-Sjáland
America = Ameríka
United States = Bandaríkin
Kenya = Kenýa
Brazil = Brasilía
Argentina = Argentína

Posted by tchgate 09:53 Archived in Iceland Tagged ecotourism Comments (0)

Cycling Around Iceland!

Black beaches & glistening glaciers, all in the spectacular south!!!

all seasons in one day

Black beaches & glistening glaciers, all in the spectacular south!!!

As we moved into the apparent 'wettest' area of Iceland, we were in for an immediate surprise. Not rays of sunshine and temperatures of the Savannah, rather one of the most attractive natural wanders of the world - Jökulsárlón (the floating glacier). The views of the amazing Vatnajökul had been teasing us for days. Amazing views in sometimes a hostile environment. We hadn't received a battering by the elements like we had on the west coast, but still it was sometimes hard to plunk up the courage and the mental strength to carry on. So you can imagine our delight when finally arriving late at night at the floating glacier that is Jökulsárlón. Instead of heading straight to bed after a long days cycle we got the tent ready, had some food, and then stayed up until about 2am exploring the edges of the floating glacier. Other 'must see' sights around Iceland had taught us wisely that during the summer you can see anything at anytime. Meaning you can go to a waterfall at 2pm and maybe not see anything for people everywhere, and really feel down spirited that you didn't get the right connection with the location. However if alternatively you are like us, and can stay up between 9pm and 2am you can be alone with some of Iceland's and the world's greatest natural locations. I believe it's one of the best ways to experience the haunting beauty some of the treats of Iceland really have to offer.
Located in the south of Iceland. Smack, bang on route 1 Jökulsárlón is an amazing place. Easy and rewarding to find. Apparently 18km² and 200m deep, making it the biggest glacial lake in Iceland, and apparently the second deepest lake behind Öskjuvatn. Due to heavy melting of the surrounding glaciers, Jökulsárlón is not separated from the sea by a huge distance. There is however a tributary which has many happy marine wildlife playing around on its way to the big blue ocean. Jökulsárlón is definitely one of my top destinations in Iceland. It is just stunningly beautiful. The kind of the jaw dropping, while trying to smile beauty. My face didn't really know what it wanted to do. I was genuinely slightly emotional. There was only myself and my two best friends alone, with the creaking noises, the marine life and the shear beauty which lay before us. We sat in silence and partial disbelief of what lay before us. Maybe because it was summer, or meant to be, and lying before us was a mass expanse of floating Ice. Maybe it was because we were sharing something of this magnitude for the first time, maybe it was just a lot to take in at that time in the morning. After maybe 5-10 minutes of sitting on the rocky surroundings of the glacier, we finally found our voices again. Pictures were taken and it was time to retire back to the tent for a much needed rest.
When we had finally risen from the land of sleep, we thought a little more exploring might be on the cards. However, the glacier was pretty full with the day tourists, the bus tourists, the camper van tourist and a couple more campers. We had camped by the black sands, over the road from the glacier, looking out of our tent with insane ocean views. There was to be nothing strenuous done. Relaxing, reading and gazing out into these surreal surroundings. We enjoyed the weather until it turned sour in the afternoon, and drove us back into our tent. This was disappointing, but typically Iceland, and by now we were totally used to the changing of all the seasons in 10 minutes, let alone a whole day. When you usually associate summer with warm sunny days or even going on holiday to places just because of the heat or their amazing white beaches, we were totally contradicting this image, sat in our tent, in the wind and rain on a weirdly beautiful black beach. Were/are we mad.... I'm still not totally sure.
The next day we didn't make it that far. The weather aloud us a brief slot to get our tent down around 10am. We then plodded on another 10km or so, and on to some more amazing views of the glacier. We decided it would be great to once again camp by the ice, in the middle of summer, and had also heard via word of mouth, that the sun was on its way tomorrow. A change of scenery away from all of the camper vans was just what we needed. The mist was soon onto us however and we were once again driven into the belly of our tent. Cards, stories and soup were in abundance, and tent life prevailed for another thrilling day of Icelandic weather.
Sure enough the next day brought us delight. The sun was out to play and the wind and rain were nowhere to be seen. Sun cream on and time to hit the road. Next major destination over the horizon was selected to be Skaftafell National Park. The Alps of Iceland........

Icelandic lesson..... around the house....(hús)

Kitchen - eldhús
Living room - dagstofa, stofa or in old houses - baðstofa
Bedroom - svefnherbergi
Bathroom - baðherbergi
Office - skrifstofa
Garden - garður
Garage - bílskúr
Pantry - búr

Posted by tchgate 15:50 Archived in Iceland Tagged ecotourism Comments (0)

Cycling around Iceland

Heading south

sunny 15 °C

Heading South....

Leaving Egilsstadir was actually quite upsetting... after a few days in this cheeky little town I felt quite attatched. I believe it was a mix of the warm hospitality shown by the locals and a chilled out atmosphere to this adilic little town. Anyway we were heading to Höfn only 246k away. The route 1 here ran between the south eastern fjords, and there was a noticably bad stretch of road which we were to look out for. Its amazing that on the main highway through a country in europe you can actually come across road like this. The road wasn't by any means Nepalie standards, where every bump throughs you out of your bus seat, and leaves you scrambling around in embaracement. No, these roads stretched through amazing fjord landscapes with rocks, sand and pebbles all over the road. Not even a good tyre tred was left by passing vehicles to allow an easier cycling path for the weary traveller. Yes, yes, yes.... I should shut up about the roads and just get on with it... its like the wind, it grinds you down. You can't cycle fast over this surface. As we had already had one inner tube blown out in the northern fjords we were taking no chances, and taking our ride with extra cautioun. We tried to hitch for a while, but with no luck we plodded on in our general slow fasion. The weather wasn't great and the clouds were decending down upon us, it didn't look good. So after maybe travelling 60k we decided to call it a day, and settle down for the night in a random field which looked softer than the rest of the surroundings, but turned out to be just as pompus and irritating as the hard ground all around us! Not a great first nights sleep. It only added to the annoyance, which the road had already caused us. Brighter things were to come.
The next day however was much better. After finally leaving the gravel road and returning to the beautiful asphelt surface everything seemed to get better. The sun was out and shinning bright, the wind was down, and the scenery was stunning. It was rather dreamy. Cycling past mountains and mountains on the way to the coast was beautiful, I kept thinking to myself, and the same question came up...... 'why didn't they film any of "Lord of the rings" here?' The landscape was rugged and wild, and empty up untill meeting the small town of Breiðdalsvík. There wasn't much going on in the small town, however it made a brilliant stop for some food, and an hour or so to relax and take in the mornings views, and the ever pending ones which were all around us. The bay was amazing. I feel that we were lucky to witness this bay area on such a calm day. I have a feeling that we should have tried to camp around there and taken the rest of the day off. However we dragged ourselves onwards to Djúpivogur.
Djúpivogur is also a fantastic little settlement. It is located near the island of Papey, which it is believed, was the settlement of Irish monks before the Norse conqueres came. The island is named after Papar, which is apparently from Latin and Old Irish meaning 'Father' or 'Pope'. The town itself seemed to revolve around the fishing industry, like many towns in Iceland. It was quaint and still. There wasn't all that much going on though. It was a brilliant place for a coffee and book, and an early-ish night.
The next days ride to Höfn was much the same as the last with the addition of wind. The views were spectacualar, the sun was out and the lack of hills helped awefully. It wasn't a hard cycle to get down to Höfn. The wind wasn't that bad for once, and we were all in good fetle. Stafafell was beautiful. It was a marking point that we weren't that far from Höfn. This picked up the moral of the group and pushed us on to complete this leg of our journey. we couldn't wait to hit some form of bigger civilisation for a few days or a day atleast. We hadn't muched our way through all of our provisions but we were needy of more pasta, rice and beans at this point. Our staple diet, oh the joys of cycling food. Baked beans and rice for dinner again tonight haha, why not throw in some chilli flakes to change it up a little bit. However, the views of the mountains around here were impecable, and would essentially make any food worth eatting. At this point I did feel really lucky to be here and just spend some time doing nothing! It was ace.
On arrival in Höfn, we realsied that we were a few days too late for the July Lobster Festival (Humarhátíð). Apparently it is amazing. We heard that the locals stand out on the streets, just cooking up lobster and giving it away to passing people. The streets were still lined with banners and cartoons of giant lobsters. It looked like a town with a hangover from one hell of a party. It was annoying that we had missed it but you can't do everything now can you?! On first apearance, ignoring banners and giant 'man eatting' lobsters, the town seemed nice. Nothing special but a pretty little coastal town with a nice harbour area and relaxed atmospher about it. This was to be home for the next few days, a place to rest the legs and relax. Lovley.

Icelandic lesson......... Nature (Náttúra).....

Forest - skógur
Sea - sjó
Mountain - fjall
Pond - Tjörnin
Glacier - jökull
Beach - fjara
Volcano - eldfjall
Lake - vatn
River - fljót
Waterfall - foss
Fjord - fjörður


Posted by tchgate 11:47 Archived in Iceland Tagged ecotourism Comments (0)

Whaling is failing in Iceland!

cycling around Iceland!


Whaling is failing in Iceland...

Whaling in Iceland dates back into the depths of Norse history and culture. No industrial sized action was then in place, rather conflicts between families or clans over beached whale carcasses was the main quarrel. Narwhals were especially hunted for there unicorn horn like spiral tooth. The practice of whaling in Iceland began only with 'spear-drift whaling', and continued mainly in traditional form until the the late 19Th century. Spear drift whaling was striking a whale with a marked spear, hoping later to find the beached carcass and share it up between the whalers families. The Icelandic word for 'beached whale' and 'jackpot' is exactly the same - "hvalreki"!! The modern ways of industrial whaling were not created by Icelandic people, rather the methods were brought into the country by companies of other nations, mainly Norwegian. Today however, Iceland, Norway and Japan are still fishing for whales. Apparently prior to 1914 Icelanders didn't fish for Minke whales, as they believed that they were sent by the gods as protectors. Iceland is still however involved in industrial whaling under an objection to a moratorium which was set in place by the International Whaling Commission in 1986.

Whaling is probably the number one controversial conversation that has been surrounding Iceland for the last few years now. Is it good for the economy? Is it socially accepted?? If it does continue should it be controlled by an international governing body such as the IWC, giving harsher quotas? Isn't it more understandable to show off the elegance and beauty of Whales for profitable gain, rather than systematically destroy one of the more dwindling population of our oceans?! Stop now, or continue?!

The main thought about whaling which I received from most Icelandic people and fellow travellers, was that it is wrong and should be stopped as soon as possible! However, there are always a few people that don't mind, or don't notice what is going on. Whether they choose to shun the idea of diminishing or extinct populations of whales, or whether they just don't know what is actually going on. I spoke to some guys, that told me "whales aren't extinct or anything", they went on to explain that Icelanders have needed the jobs that whaling offers and also that it is a profitable and understandable organisation.
Surely it is more profitable and environmentally friendly (and therefore 'understandable') to exploit the tourism industry! Whale watching is one of the biggest attractions in Iceland and operates out of many ports all over the country. Husavik (north Iceland) and Reykjavik (South west), are the main tourist hot-spots for whale watching. They charge between 45euros and 55euros for adults, and 20euros for children. Some tours offering under 7's trips for free. Surely watching the grace of these aquatic mammals is far more financially suitable to the country of Iceland than fishing for the giants.
Iceland's image as a credible country, whom upholds a certain level of responsibility for the management of natural resources, has been somewhat tarnished by whaling. Increasing the numbers of tourists travelling to Iceland for whale watching and other tours will surely create and secure a long lasting and more sustainable future for Ireland's economy, rather than Whaling. There are presently organisations such as Greenpeace, whom are asking for people to boycott travel to the major Whaling countries, such as Iceland, Norway and Japan. Assumably this is to show the countries that the mammals are far more profitable as living creatures, then steaks or kebabs.
If whaling is allowed to continue, then surely stricter quotas must be internationally agreed upon for each and every country, and eventually be presented and overseen by an international governing body such the International Whaling Commission. At the 62ND ICW meeting last month in Agadir, Morocco, new and harsher quotas were put on indigenous whaling groups in Greenland, decreasing numbers of all whales allowed to be hunted by them. This shows some movement in the correct direction. I hope and believe that it is a matter time until the Icelandic government passes laws to ban whaling within their waters.
Surely fishermen of whales hold enough information on the where abouts and actions of whales, that they could be more use aiding scientists. Many fishermen I spoke to said that it was a way of life, and at the moment with the economic downturn it was the way they paid the bills. They seemed numb to the fact of diminishing numbers of whales, and didn't really talk heavily with me on the subject.
I believe that if more time and money is put into advertising Iceland as the adventure capital of Europe, that it could be, then the whole problem of whaling could be turned on its head, with more tourism and educational trips been run from all over Iceland. To me its a no brain-er! I very much hope that you agree.
A diving and snorkeling experience is offered by a company called Arctic Sharks, working out of the Reykjavik area. They are apparently the leading company offering various different dives, from ship wrecks and a unique dive between the continental Eurasian, and North American plates, to seal dives, puffin dives and even James Bond propulsion dives. Check them out at www.arcticsharks.com. Its companies like this that keep surprising me about Iceland. I honestly hadn't heard a thing about many of these companies until I got here, or until I stumbled across a leaflet in a hostel or tourist information shop. I have a passionate belief that this country really has more to offer than tourist giants like New Zealand. There is a brilliant wild feeling to the country. There is sooo much to discover here and much more to be done in the next decade to turn it around into a powerhouse of the future.

As far as whaling goes, I don't think that it's going to be stopped in the near future, although we can all hope. However I believe and hope that when they finally realise the benefits of having an abundance of these amazing mammals around Iceland, surely then things will change.

Fingers crossed!

Posted by tchgate 11:26 Archived in Iceland Tagged ecotourism Comments (0)

Cycling Around Iceland

Icelandic Lock Ness in Egilsstadir


Icelandic Lock Ness in Egilsstadir.....

Upon first viewing of the title of this article you could wander what I'm on about?! A Scottish lock in Iceland?! Well... not really the lake or a lock, more of whats in the lake.... In north eastern Iceland there is a town known as Egilsstadir. It is a young town formed in 1947 by the national government, and is one of the main trade posts for the east of Iceland. It actually has quite a nice little vibe to the place. Sat on the edge of Lagarfljót Lake (one of Iceland's deepest lakes), and surrounded by mountains it is hard to imagine how this cute little town could have its tranquility questioned. Apart from maybe when Holland are playing football in the world cup...!? Anyhow... if you read a little more into Lagarfljót Lake, you will learn of a mysterious creature living in the depths. Known to some as 'Lagarfljótsormur' or to others as 'Lagarfljotsormurinn', or simply to you and me as Icelandic worm monster. This lake cryptid can apparently rival the Scottish Lock Ness Monster and apparently is much older than wee Nessie!!!
The origins of this lake cryptid date back to olden days when folke magic was common practice. As the story goes, a milk maid situated nearby the lake, allowed her magic to get a little out of hand. When trying for riches, she placed a golden ring and a small snail or worm into a box together. When opening the box on a second viewing, it was hard not to notice that the snail/worm had now grown to the size of the box. On this notion, she threw the wiered snail/worm into the lake, where it continued to grow. The first recorded sighting of the creature was in 1345, when local farmers noticed humps moving across the water. With no recorded visual footage of this giant worm, it is hard to say if its ledgend is as mighty as Nessie's, however more sightings keep coming up with new stories, adding to the allusive nature of the mythical cryptid.
While we scammbled around the shore of the lake there actually was an almost chilling fealing (not the wind for once), but something else. The colour of the lake is a kind of 'chalky white', apparently caused by siltation. This visibly poor water adds to the imagination. While looking out and pondering over the idea of another sighting of the creature, I once again felt like a child in Iceland, left to think about strange goings on in beautiful places.
The next tale I learnt of was of 'The Dragon of the east'. The dragon of the east is one of four Icelandic guardians described in an old story by a Danish magician, sent to Iceland by King Harold of Denmark prior to his invasion of Iceland. It is said that the magician took the form of a whale and swam to Iceland, as to appear not to stand out. When approaching Vopnafjörður (fjord of weapons), the magician was met by a huge dragon and many other reptiles and lizards and worms. The hills were filled with spirits and the magician was pushed away. He then went north to Eyjafjörður (Fjord of Isles), where he was approached by a bird sooooo massive that its wing span covered the fjord. Once again the magician was scared away by the huge bird and many other birds of all various sizes. This time he swam west and south to Breiðafjörður (Wide Fjord), where this time he was approached by giant bull, whom joined by spirits waded into the sea and destroyed yet more efforts for the magician to get onto land. Finally the magician approached Víkarsskeið (The Sands of Vikar), on the Reykjanes Peninsula, where this time he was met by a huge rock giant. Apparently his head was higher than the mountains. The dejected magician, fearing as if he would never land on Iceland returned back to Denmark to share with his king the information. Apparently due to these four spirits and a little help from their friends, they ended the intentions for invasion by King Harold of Denmark.
Anyway, enough of folk stories and Icelandic ledgend more on Egilsstadir. The town has recently gained a new campsite which has great facilities and is in awesome walking distance from the 'new' sports bar and cafe to hit the Egilsstadir scene. The sports cafe seemed to be a central hang out for most of the youthful Icelandics in the area. On Saturday they ran a great deal which was two beers for 700ISK between 8-11pm. As the night rocked on and the crowd got bigger this little place could have done with more of a music theme, rather than MTV on large screen... however, the locals were great and made us feel very welcome. What else made us stay for days? Apart from the hang over and..... oh yeh, the all you can eat buffet in the cafe just next to campsite. After cooking your own food on a camping stove for a few weeks, any kind of 'all you can eat' buffet sounds brilliant. We did rather over indulge on more than one occasion at the lunch buffet. The rest of our time spent in Egilsstadir was either exploring the abundance of lovely views from all around the city, or relaxing in the local swimming pool.
I would say that Egilsstadir is worth a visit. It is close to so many attractions in the north east of Iceland, and is also home to its own mystical serpant, not many towns can boast such features! We eventually managed to move on from Egilsstadir, heading towards Höfn í Hornafirð, and its lure of lobster.

Icelandic lesson..... around town!

Church - Kirkjan
Post Office - pósthús
Hospital - sjúkrahús
Book shop - Bókin verslun
Coffee shop (cafe) - kaffihús
Airport - Flugvöllur
Swimming pool -Sundlaug
Supermarket - stórmarkaður

Posted by tchgate 12:26 Archived in Iceland Tagged ecotourism Comments (0)

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